Mosque Tour/ Wishing I Wasn't Blonde

I was thrilled today to not wake up with jetlag! I took some jetlag pills that some friends swore by, and now I do as well.

When I woke up Kate and Nic were already showered and ready to start the day. In fact, they had already run 4 miles- they are training for the Marine Corps Marathon in DC in October. They are CRAZY. I've been here two days and I feel like I've been smoking a pack of cigarettes a day from the pollution- I don't know how they do it.

We toured four different mosques today. It was so incredible to see these massive structures. They built some of them in the 700's... not the 1700's, the 700's!!!

The first mosque we headed to was The Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Ţūlūn. It is arguably the oldest mosque in the Cairo surviving in its original form, and is the largest mosque in Cairo in terms of land area. You have to take your shoes off, and women must cover their heads. Luckily Kate knows all the rules and brought scarves. I loved this place because of its very colorful and controversial history. There is significant controversy over the date of construction of the minaret, which features an outer staircase similar to that of the famous minaret in Samarra. Legend has it that ibn Ţūlūn himself was accidentally responsible for the design of the structure: supposedly while sitting with his officials, he absentmindedly wound a piece of parchment around his finger. When someone asked him what he was doing, he responded, embarrassed, that he was designing his minaret. Many of the architectural features, however, point to a later construction, in particular the way in which the minaret does not connect well with the main mosque structure, something that would have been averted had the minaret and mosque been built at the same time. Architectural historian Doris Behrens-Abouseif asserts that Sultan Lajīn, who restored the mosque in 1296, was responsible for the construction of the current minaret. Either way, it's beautiful, and the picture of the view over Cairo it from the top of the minaret. So cool!

My favorite Mosque was The Sultan Hassan Mosque and Madrasa (Madrase means "school" and not "terrorist camp" unlike what many Americans believe it to mean) is considered stylistically the most compact and unified of all Cairo monuments. It is one of the masterpieces of Mamluk architecture. The building was commissioned by Sultan Hassan bin Mohammad bin Qala'oun in 1356 AD as a mosque and religious school for all four juristic branches of Sunni Islam. It was designed so that each of the four schools of thought - Shafi, Maliki, Hanafi and Hanbali - has its own area while sharing the mosque. Construction started in 1356 AD and ended 7 years later in 1363 AD. One of the minarets collapsed during construction killing 300 people. The state was able to fund the massive structure through the properties that were left behind by the victims of the Black Death. The Sultan was assassinated before the mosque was completed and his body was never recovered. The magnificent burial chamber that was intended for him holds his two sons instead.

We also went to Al-Hakim Mosque. It is one of the largest Fatimid mosques in Cairo. Construction of it commenced in 990 under Caliph Abu Mansoor Nizar al-Aziz, but it was completed under his son Caliph al-Hakim bi Amr Allah in 1013.

The last mosque we toured was Al-Azhar. It is very famous for incubating progressive thinkers. It's the premier Egyptian institution of higher learning, world-renowned for its position as a center of Islamic scholarship and education. It is the second oldest operating university in the world! Al-Azhar is considered by most Sunni Muslims to be the most prestigious school of Islamic learning, and its scholars are seen as some of the most reputable scholars in the Muslim world.

After the tour of the mosques, we were starving. Kate and Nic took me to one of their favorite places- an Egyptian Pancake House. They aren't pancakes, of course, they are more like pizzas, with the toppings inside instead of on the top. They're called fatirs and they are excellent. They also have "sweet" fatirs- an Egyptian treat with the flaky pastry crust- it had honey and hot bananas in it- YUM!

After our tasty treat and lunch, we headed over to a very busy Egyptian market. It was insane. And this is when I realized I should have dyed my hair before I got here. In Zambia and Thailand everyone would look at me, but here they grab my arm, shout "blondie" and "Cinderella" and other weird things. I'm not even that blonde!

It got old real quick. Kate and Nic are used to it and they hardly even hear it anymore. Men kept telling Nic "you are a lucky man." Not one boy or male would go by without at least whispering something under his breath. It's very very frustrating, considering I was respecting all their rules (long pants, long sleeves, covered head, etc). But because I had blonde hair, and because I wasn't Egyptian, I am taunted everytime I go out. Kate just doesn't even do anything anymore- I don't know if that would ever stop bothering me, especially the grabbing.

In the end I ended up not getting much because I was too frustrated with how everything worked. I did, however, get some cool spices for my friend Alyssa at work. (Hopefully customs doesn't flip out!) Kate knows a nice store that doesn't haggle and bother Westerners, so my guess is that's where I'll be buying most of my goodies for home.

After the craziness in the market, we came home to prepare for a big cookout with Kate and Nick's friends from American University of Cairo. I knew almost everyone, because I went to American University in DC with them. It was great to see them all and hear their stories from traveling over their break. I also made some new friends, which is always a nice thing. The dinner was excellent and after that we just sat around and chatted about everything under the sun. It was so nice- I miss being a student and learning all these incredible things- I was like a sponge tonight, trying to absorb as much Middle Eastern history as I could.

But now it's nearly 2am here (7pm in DC) and I'm getting up at 7am to go to school with Nic and Kate. I'll also be going to the Egyptian Museum tomorrow, which should be great.

Enjoy my pictures from today that are below, and check out the rest at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mk2/

The first mosque we entered... amazing!

I love foreign soda cans- this is the neatest one I've seen so far

A breathtaking view from the top of the minaret at Ibn Tulun- I burned about 400 calories climbing to the top!

Prayer rugs at a mosque- each carpet space is meant for one person- the pointy part is where you head should make contact- very devout Muslims actually have bruises one heir foreheads from praying five times a day- it looks very similar to ashes placed on foreheads for Ash Wednesday in Catholicism

An "artsy" shot of the hanging lamps in a mosque- I love these lamps!

This picture is only for Annie- I thought of you when I saw this cute mamma and her identical baby!

Nic and Kate, my amazing friends, hosts, and guides!!!

Here At Last!

3:40pm DC time, 10:40pm Cairo time

After some daunting times at Charles De Gaul Airport in Paris, I am finally in Cairo! Flying in was such an experience- I saw the pyramids, the Nile... so amazing. Before we landed, I went to the bathroom and seriously did a small happy dance. I couldn't believe that I was finally here!

Seeing the pyramids from overhead was incredible- to think how long ago they were created, and that we still can't comprehend how they were built... wow.

Kate and Nic were right there to pick me up- it's so good to see them! The apartment they share with a few other students I know, and a few students from Belgium and France is huge. It's very "art deco" (read: outdated) but such a nice space. Their other roomie from AU is in Palestine, so until he gets back, I have an entire bedroom to myself- so nice!

The first thing I did when I got here was to take a shower- it takes a learning curve and a bit of artistry to get the temperature right. Next time I'm sure I'll be better, but tonight it was either at boiling hot or freezing- practice makes perfect!

Kate made a very nice shrimp pasta dinner and I was so grateful for not eating airplane food anymore. It was sooooo good. After that we went to an ex-pat market around the corner to grab a few things, then back here to drink some cosmopolitans with the alcohol that caused me so much trouble to get here- they were quite tasty!

Now, after being up for nearly 42 hours, it's time for me to crash (3:30pm DC time) and get some rest for tomorrow's adventures. I am very lucky to have such good friends like Nic and Kate- they got me maps and all sorts of things to prepare to go out into the world of Cairo. They even taught me a few key phrases I'll be using in the next two weeks such as "Can I take your picture?" and "Please don't pinch my butt!"

I'm exhausted, so this will be cut short. But don't you worry, I'll be keeping you updated when I can!

There was no way I was going to pass up a fresh chocolate croissant in France!

One of the few duty-free stores open at 6am at Charles De Gaul

PYRAMIDS!!!

Cairo, one of the five biggest cities in the world

Somewhere Over Ireland

2-9-07, 11pm, flying over Exeter

I really hope the rest of my trip is as nice as this airplane ride- I have an entire row to myself, I have silly games to play with a remote control, I’m listening to Middle Eastern pop music on my headphones, and I got to watch Flags Of Our Fathers, which I have wanted to see for a long time. (It was great by the way- it’s about the symbolic Iwo Jima photograph) I would have watched Little Miss Sunshine as well, but I promised Dubs that we’d rent it next time he was in town.

Because I ordered the vegetarian meal, I was served first. Everyone around me probably thought I was some princess- I just didn’t want the chicken curry. I had the vegetable curry, though, and it was quite good. Thanks, Air France!

We just flew over Ireland- I love the geography map they show you on your screen so you can see where you are. So neat. I thought about my trip to Ireland in 2001 and how it was my first time out of the country. How I got separated from my dad at the international terminals at O’Hare and had all of our luggage, including both sets of our clubs. My first long plane ride. My first real roommate experience. Being away from home for 10 days. Amazing carrot soup. Playing golf every single day. Cute Irish boys. It was such a cool experience and it really got the ball rolling for all my other travels.

One thing that has remained true throughout all my trips is that I stay friends with a handful of the people I meet. That’s probably one of the best parts. The friendships I’ve made all over the world are so important to me, and I really hope I make a few nice friends while I’m touring Egypt for the next two weeks.

We’ll be landing here shortly and I’m a bit nervous because I’ve heard such horror stories about Charles DeGaul airport and how massive and chaotic it can be. That and I don’t speak French.

This 6.5 hours went by pretty quickly, although I admittedly was asleep for some of it. I have a three hour layover in Paris and then a 4.5 hour flight to Cairo. I’m more than halfway to Egypt!

Row 25

2-9-07, 2:30pm, Dulles Airport

All the nervousness of packing, getting ready, and finishing up work has gone away. As soon as I got out of the Super Shuttle at Dulles, I was at ease, excited even.

When Air France asked me where my final destination was I had the biggest smile on my face. “Cairo,” I said. The guy smiled back, noting my excitement.

Airports just get me going, especially when I’m by myself (not with a huge group, and I don’t have to babysit co-workers) and when I’m flying to a place I’ve never been.

I become really observant- I listen to all the languages being spoken and try to guess what they are. I browse all the duty-free stores and smell all the perfumes until I start to get a headache. I become a crazy people watcher. I make up stories for why they are going to places. What they do. Where they’re from. And then when I sit next to one of them and they tell me differently, I get disappointed because they’re going to Thailand to install hi-speed internet and they’re not sneaking into Burma with Doctors Without Borders.

I stopped at an alcohol booth. Kate and Nic only asked that I bring them two things: Brilliant Brunette shampoo (you can guess who requested that one) and a bottle of Cointreau. Poor college kids in Cairo- no good alcohol to be found. Duty-free stuff is a bit weird here at Dulles, where there isn’t a specific international terminal. The staff asks you every 30 seconds where your destination is, to make sure it’s not a domestic flight. Forget about your age, they just don’t want you to bring booze to Salt Lake City. You’re not even allowed to take it out of the store, in case you’re buying it for someone else- they deliver it right to your plane. Weird.

This is my first time flying Air France. And it just dawned on me: holy crap, I don’t speak any French. I know the numbers one through ten. Hopefully that helps me when they call row twenty-five…

Leaving in T Minus 3 hours

I'm leaving for Egypt in a few short hours. I am so excited, but so nervous. I hope I've packed everything I need. I think I've done everything at work and with my brides that needs to be done. I'm ready.

Somehow I fit everything in my travel backback and my camera backpack- amazing! Of course, I left tons of room to bring goodies back for everyone :-)

So far, from what I know, my trip will start in Cairo, where I will of course see the pyramids while riding a camel. (This is a childhood dream! Whenever I was feeling sick, my mom and I would turn on the Discovery Channel and watch fascinating shows about ancient Egypt and all the pharos. I don't even know what I'll do when I see them!)

We'll be headed to Luxor at some point, and then off to spend a few days at the Red Sea for some snorkeling and eco-tourism. Lucky for you I bought a small underwater camera... let's just hope I figure out how to use it by then!

I am bringing my laptop with me and am hoping to share my experiences with you all as much as I can. There are rumors that Nic and Kate have wireless internet in their Cairo apartment- I hope it's true!

I'm looking forward to learning more about Egyptian culture and history, eating some fantastic food, listening to amazing music, and hanging out with a few of my closest friends.

Please keep in touch- leave comments!

My stuff... in two bags!!!

(an amazing feat)

Getting Ready to Go

Before I go on a big trip, I always try to get really prepared. Sometimes overly prepared. I make to-do lists, must-pack lists, must-bring back lists, must-visit lists... it's a bit overwhelming. This time around I'm going to try and simplify things.

Since I'm staying with my fabulous friends Kate and Nic, much of the stress I usually feel before going out of the country has been silenced. I have all the immunizations I need, I've called my bank so they don't freak out when they see charges in Cairo, I've paid my rent early, the pet sitter is lined up, and I know where I'll be laying my head at night. A very good feeling indeed. Despite all my preperation, I'm still nervous. And being a bit nervous is good, I think.

One of the things I do before a trip is clean my entire apartment. Not just pick up, but vacuum, dust... whole whole works. There's nothing better than coming home from a crazy long plane ride to a clean, nice apartment. Yesterday I cleaned the living room, office, and bedroom. Tonight is the kitchen and bathroom- oh joy.

Time to get back to packing and cleaning... and Grey's Anatomy!

The first picture is what my bedroom looked like while packing, and the second picture is what my living room looked like when I cleaned up!