Sustainable Travel

So now that I've been in Egypt for two weeks I see what a toll pollution can take on our planet. While I recycle at home and am in general an energy saver, that huge plane ride I took here, and the one I'll be taking tomorrow, really does affect the earth.

Check out www.climatecare.org and see how much CO2 emissions you're causing. It's frightening. From my flight to DC to Cairo, I used 2.61 Tons of CO2. It's scary, but we can all make our plane trips and travel sustainable if we make contributions to the environment in positive ways, like purchasing Carbon Offsetting.

Each time we heat our homes, take a flight or drive the car, CO2 is added into the atmosphere. CO2 is a greenhouse gas that is released when fossil fuels such as oil, gas and coal are burnt. Offsetting means paying someone to reduce CO2 in the atmosphere by the same amount that your activities add. In this way you can 'neutralize' or 'balance' the CO2 added by your activities.

So before I get on my flight tomorrow morning for the states, I'll be purchasing my carbon offset, which costs about $25 bucks. I'd say that if it one day lets my kids see the pyramids, then it's totally worth it. Please check it out and consider doing carbon offsetting for your next trip.

Egyptian Museum and Kentucky Fried Chicken

Today Nic and Kate had class all day, so I was completely on my own. I feel a lot more comfortable now, so I wasn't too worried about it. I only got haggled once on the half hour walk to the Egyptian Museum, which was great. The pollution this morning, however, was awful. This city, as much as I enjoy it, is really really dirty and gross.

The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, known commonly as the Egyptian Museum, is home to the most extensive collection of ancient Egyptian antiquities in the world. It has 136,000 items on display, with many more hundreds of thousands in its basement storerooms. In fact, the weight of some of the items in the basement is so great that some of the items sunk and had to be excavated. You aren't allowed to take any pictures, so the ones I've posted here aren't mine.
The museum is an outgrowth of the Egyptian Antiquities Service, established by the Egyptian government in 1835, in an attempt to limit the looting of antiquities from sites, and protect artifacts.

Some of the big things in the museum: Artifacts from the tombs of kings and members of the royal families of the Middle Kingdom found at Dahshur in 1894. The contents of the royal tombs of Tuthmosis III, Tuthmosis IV, Amenhotep III and Horemheb and the tomb of Yuya and Thuya. Artifacts from the tomb of Tutankhamun, consisting of more than 3500 Pieces, of which 1700 objects are displayed in the museum (the rest are in storerooms).

It was pretty neat to walk around. Some people spend days or even weeks exploring all the treasures. Sadly, the museum is more like the Costco of Egyptian articfacts... there is stuff everywhere and it's poorly labeled. Luckily my guidebook told me all the highlights and I was able to follow along nicely. I spent about three hours there and took the Metro back.

As I was coming out of the train at Dokki, the stop where the apartment is, I was feeling pretty good about myself. However, I couldn't find my train ticket, so I couldn't get out of the station. But the workers took pity on my poor stupid tourist soul and let me go. Then I got lost. Being cost in Cairo takes a lot out of you, but I was able to find my way back to the apartment. Finding my way back helped boost my travel ego again- it was pretty bruised from losing the Metro ticket after only two stops.

Walking home I was starving. Kate and Nic told me about a Kentucky Fried Chicken in the neighborhood that was staffed entirely by deaf Egyptians. Curious about the environment there, and dying of starvation, I set out to eat there.

The guy manning the cash register had me point at what I wanted, fanned his mouth asking if I wanted it hot or not and pointed at the receipt to show me how much I owed. The American restaurant chain, which runs the deaf KFC, opened the restaurant a decade ago. Its general manager came up with the idea as a way to help the little-noticed deaf community in Cairo. For many, this is the first job they have ever had in their lives. They take pride in their work, and are quick to smile at any sign language you can muster. It is also a de facto hangout for the young deaf. I thought it was a very cool place and even though I now feel like I should run a few miles to make up for the fatty meal, I'm glad that I had that experience.

After I got back, Nic and Kate made some dinner and we drank a new Sakkara's (Egyptian beer) and they started doing homework. I, however, completed the NOAA Security Test online. As one of my co-workers said in an e-mail, I deserve a gold star. I don't know about a gold star, but it was a silly little test that took far too long!

Tomorrow is my last day in Egypt! I am SO SAD! I leave very early on Friday morning. We're headed to the pyramids of Saqquara tomorrow, and I am so excited. More soon!

A Day in the Neighborhood

Today was sort of a lazy day. I slept in a bit and then took a stroll around the neighborhood. I always wear my hair in a ponytail, but today it was down and "out" and oh boy did people notice. All the men made hand gestures about my hair and whistled. Who knew a little bit of blonde hair could get so many people riled up. Needless to say, it was in a ponytail by the time I got to the local grocery store.

The grocery store close to here is pretty expensive and really only for expats and very wealthy Egyptians. I found some things to use to make lunch and some pita bread Kate wanted to use for dinner. Then I went on a hunt for a tea kettle. The one in the apartment is a 3rd degree burn waiting to happen- there's a hole in the top that blasts steam in your face, the handle gets super hot and has melted, and it's hard to pour. Considering that it's used on average 8-10 times a day in this apartment by its six residents, I figured it would be a nice thank you gift for letting me stay here for two weeks.

Of course it was on the highest shelf. Knowing no Arabic but "thank you" I somehow communicated that I wanted the tea kettle. He got it down for me and proceeded to speak to me in Arabic. I felt awful, but he finally understood that I had no idea what he was saying. I checked out, got my change and walked back to the apartment where I did some dishes, some reading, and replied to a lot of e-mails. It's hard to believe that when I get back to DC that wedding season begins and I'll be done with this blog and be on to this one!

I also went out on the deck today to take some pictures of the neighborhood. There's always something going on below- someone selling vegetables, kids playing, or a car accident with tons of people crowding around to make it more dramatic. The circle their building is on is just crazy- I don't like roundabouts in DC- I can't imagine driving on this one.

Tonight will just be a quiet night in- Kate was diagnosed with Bronchitis this afternoon and Nic has lots of homework. We're going to make a tasty dinner and just relax... trying to remember what relaxing feels like, because once March hits and he weddings begin, I won't know what that means anymore!

City of the Dead

Today we got up semi-early and headed to the City of the Dead. While it sounds like quite the scary place, it really isn’t.

The City of the Dead: all of these "houses" are actually tombs

It is a four mile-long set of cemeteries located on the eastern side of Cairo. It is also home to nearly a million people, many of whom were forced from crowded ghettos in Cairo.

For many who live in Cairo, the City of the Dead is a mysterious, foreboding area. Many are aware of its existence but few understand this group of vast cemeteries that stretches out along the base of the Moqattam Hills.

Among these cemeteries lives a community of Egypt’s urban poor, forming an illegal but tolerated, separate society. From the Salah Salem Highway, the City of the Dead appears to be organized and proper, a match for the beige, sandy landscape of the distant Citadel. Inside, however these cemeteries bear witness to the centuries of Cairo’s history.

The historic belief in Egypt is that the cemeteries are an active part of the community and not exclusively for the dead. In modern times, because of Egypt’s housing crisis, a lack of satisfactory and affordable housing for a rapidly growing population, many poor Egyptians have made these rooms their permanent homes. The cemeteries built in the City of the Dead are much different than the western idea of cemeteries. This is because traditionally, Egyptians buried their dead in room-like “burial sites” so they could live in them during the long mourning period of forty days.

These residents of the City of the Dead have adapted the rooms to meet their needs. They have used the grave markers as desks, and shelves. They have hung strings between gravestones for their laundry to dry out. They have brought in the electricity by wires over the roofs coming from the nearby mosque to be able to be able to live properly.

The City of the Dead seems to its inhabitants quite ideal because it is already built, affordable, and partially equipped. However there are many disadvantages of living there. The rooms are also filled with the overwhelming smell of the garbage piled outside their doors and sewage leaking out of the un-drained tanks. After only being there for a few hours, I wondered how these people could really live normal lives.

Today, the population of the City of the Dead is growing rapidly because of rural migration and it’s a complicated housing crisis that is getting worse. I really don’t know how they’ll ever fix it.
Both Kate’s guidebook and mine warned us that the City of the Dead was a tough place. It said we should wear headscarves and make sure to be very nice. Naturally, after reading all these things, we walked on eggshells when we got there. However, we quickly found out it wasn’t necessary to be scared at all- the people in the City of the Dead are kind and open.

They welcome you at every turn. They gave us tours of their beautiful mosques and made sure we got all the pictures we wanted. This is very unlike the rest of Cairo. The most shocking thing in all of the City of the Dead were the women… they smiled. Yes, they smiled. And said hello. And waved. And they looked truly happy to see us. This is VERY unlike the rest of Egypt, where women who don’t wear the veil are disrespected.

Windows in a fantastic mosque in City of the Dead

I will go as far as to say some women in Cairo give me the evil eye. But the women here in this neighborhood came to say hello and had genuine smiles and such a kind way about them. Kate and I were stunned. Although the guidebooks said this was one of the scariest places in Cairo, I totally, wholeheartedly, disagree. The City of the Dead is, by far, one of the best places in Cairo. The people may not have much, but they have a fantastic community filled with loving homes and parents, and honestly, isn’t that the most important thing?

A glassblower's store (yes mom, perhaps one of your gifts is from here...)

The future of the City of the Dead remains uncertain. The residents of the city will not deliberately agree to relocate unless the government provides other housing for them.

We spent a bit more time there and then went to get some Egyptian pancakes before Nic and Kate had to run to class. I grabbed a cab back to the apartment, did some laundry, watched several fights over fender benders on the deck, enjoyed the sunset, uploaded my pictures, and wrote about my experiences here in Cairo. What a good day!

A biker carries bread on a crate- I have no idea how they balance the break, bike, and avoid all the crazy traffic!

A door to one of the many tombs in City of the Dead

Kate and Nic forge ahead

An old, but once very fancy tomb

A dog sits on a taxi in City of the Dead

Underwater in Dahab

Nic, Kate, and I got up early on Saturday to go snorkeling. I was excited but also very nervous. I've only been snorkeling a few times and I knew that the Blue Hole was a bit advanced.

We got to the dive store and they got us all our equipment, including wet suits... it's a bit chilly in the water, though I did see people swimming in bikinis. The worst part of the entire day was trying on wetsuits. Kate and I are both really short and that makes everything more difficult. Wetsuits are also impossible to get on. It took two guys to help me put it on- so embarrassing, but I quickly got over it because everyone needed people to help them get those ridiculous things on.

A Bedouin driver takes us out to the Blue Hole. First there is a military checkpoint. They ask the driver who in the jeep is an American. Our guide then points to me, Nic, and Kate. Great. We'll be the first ones shot. There were also some British, Irish, and Canadian folks with us.

The drive was bumpy and difficult, but the rocky coastline isn't an ideal place for vehicles, either. We finally made it to the Blue Hole, and were dropped off at a tiny restaurant on the water to eat breakfast. After eating, we started getting all our gear on, which was a workout in itself. Now to the Blue Hole we go!

Wetsuits are not fun, but we'll smile anyway!

Entry to the site is through a large lagoon in the reeftop, about 164 feet across. This lagoon is the 'blue hole' which gives the site its name - it is in fact the top of a vertical shaft which is reported to extend over 984 feet straight down. Supposedly, no one has ever seen the bottom of the blue hole. However, many have tried and more than a few people have gone in and never come back, due to nitrogen narcosis. A shallow lip at about 20 feet leads from the lagoon to the outer reef; deep within the hole, an arched passage also links the reef face to the hole itself.

Nic took this picture after climbing around... a great view of the Blue Hole

We all got in and I started snapping pictures right away. I was so excited to use my underwater camera.

Not even five minutes into the water, Kate loses a flipper. Into the Blue Hole it went, never to be seen again.

OK, so new game plan- two at a time. Nic and I go first and at first I was really nervous, but I finally relaxed and really enjoyed myself. We saw all sorts of incredible sea life, including a ray, angelfish, parrotfish, clown fish... you name it, we saw it. It was awesome. After Nic and I made it back to shore, Nic and Kate went out.

Kate and I at the beginning of our snorkel adventure

While they explored the coral, I relaxed and took pictures of the shore and the surrounding area. When they came back, Kate and I hopped in and I enjoyed another round of the reef. Just an amazing place! I don't think I'll ever again be in water so clear and beautiful. The coral reefs were in great condition and from what I could tell, everyone really respected the wildlife.

Nic showing off

There are finally efforts underway to reduce destruction from overfishing, uncontrolled tourism, and collection of corals for souvenirs in the Red Sea. It's a difficult task, considering Egypt, Israel, and Jordan don't always get along. They are just beginning to explore effective new ecotourism initiatives, one that includes a tourist tax to assist with the preservation of the coral reefs. I hope it works, because it's an amazing place!

After snorkeling we got back to our hotel, unloaded and went for a huge seafood dinner. Now, I wasn't a big fan of picking my own dinner from a tray of icy fish, but that's how it works here, and that's what you do. We had some Grouper fish and some calamari. We were stuffed afterwards. After such a long day in the water we headed back to our room and took hot showers and passed out. Before I fell asleep I noticed that I had the strangest sunburn ever- a small spot of red on the very top of my forehead and a small spot on the top of my nose- not my whole nose, not under my eyes. Strange places for a sunburn, but I'm taking care of it, funny as it is.

Nic, Kate, and the owner of the place we ate dinner... I'm not a fan of haggling a price for food, but we ended up getting a pretty good deal since it's not tourist season in Dahab.

Our tasty dinner

Busride to Dahab

After a looooong 10 hour midnight bus ride from Cairo to Dahab, we finally made it. The ride itself was pretty awful. We kept ourselves awake all night so that we'd sleep on the bus... or so we thought. We load the bus at 12:15 and we crash pretty much once we settled in. At 2 a.m. they start blasting an Arabic version on Grease on the TV. The color is awful, the sound is even worse, and to top it off, the one light they leave on in the bus is above my head.

Every hour or so we stop. Passport check. seat check. Check point check. Poor Kate isn't feeling well and is constantly being woken up by all the commotion. If you drove a car from Cairo to Dahab it would only take 5 hours. It took us double. This is the way of Egypt.

Sunrise over the desert however, was spectacular. With nothing in its way, the sun beams over the horizon- just a huge ball of fire turning the beige sand orange. And then as if out of nowhere, the mountains began. Large brown piles of jutting rock. So tall and massive. And then, as if the landscape couldn't be more breathtaking, the Red Sea begins. Welcome to Sinai.

In 1948, Egyptian forces passed through Sinai on their way to invade the newly-created state of Israel based on a United Nations partition dividing the land between the Jews and the Arabs. During the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, Israeli forces entered the north-eastern corner of Sinai, but withdrew shortly after, following British and American pressure. Under the terms of the 1949 Armistice Agreement, Sinai, together with the Gaza Strip, remained under Egyptian control, although parts of it were demilitarized.

In 1956, Egypt used its control of Sinai to impose a blockade on the Israeli port of Eilat. Following this, Israeli forces, aided by Britain and France (which sought to regain control over the Suez Canal) invaded Sinai, and took control over the entire peninsula within a few days. Several months later, Israel withdrew its forces from Sinai, following strong American and Soviet pressure. Following this, the United Nations Emergency Force (UNEF), was stationed in Sinai to prevent any military occupation of the Sinai.

In 1967, Egypt reinforced its military presence in Sinai, renewed the blockade on Eilat, and on May 16 ordered the UNEF out of Sinai effective immediately. In response Israel initiated the Six-Day War in which, the Egyptian army was defeated, and Israel took control over the entire peninsula. The Suez Canal, whose east bank was now controlled by Israel, was closed.

In 1979 Israel and Egypt signed a peace treaty, in which Israel agreed to transfer all control over Sinai to Egypt, despite the fact that large amounts of oil reserves had recently been found in the region. Subsequently, Israel pulled out of Sinai in several stages, ending in 1982. The Israeli pull-out involved the dismantling almost all of the Israeli settlements including the town of Yamit in north-eastern Sinai. The exception was Ofira, which became the resort town of Sharm el-Sheikh. (which we stopped in on the bus, but didn't go to- hardcore party town, and we are not hardcore partiers- we stayed in Dahab)

Dahab is a small town situated on the southeast coast of the Sinai Peninsula. Formerly a Bedouin fishing village, located approximately 62 miles northeast of Sharm el-Sheikh. Dahab is still considered to be one of the Sinai's most treasured diving destinations.

Today Dahab has examples of cultures from around the world, a multi national group of people have decided to settle in Dahab or have made this their second home. This gives Dahab an interesting mix and a very continental flavor.

The second largest population group in Dahab is made up of Bedouin Tribes who settled here some 800 years ago. In the past 30 years they have seen much change, some has had a positive impact on their lifestyle while some of it has been negative. The Jeep has long replaced the camel as the transport method of choice (but some still do- I saw 'em!), but fortunately the Bedouin Culture in Dahab has remained largely intact for now, with Assalah being the Bedouin Village.

In Dahab today there are around 10,000 Bedouin people made up mostly from The Muzzeina Tribe. In addition there are about 20,000 people here from the rest of Egypt and around 3,000 people living or working here from all over the world.

Bedouins are REALLY interesting. Bedouins are Arabic speaking nomadic tribes that originate from the Arabian Peninsula (mainly Saudi Arabia) and would travel the desert to locations where they would find food and water, sometimes traveling for days before they arrived at their final destinations. Each tribe would have an area of land under their responsibility from which they would make income by allowing travelers and traders to pass through. As knowledgeable guides of the desert they controlled the desert trade routes, and escorted caravans. Almost all those who live in Dahab, minus the expats who work at the dive stores, are Bedouins.

So we check in to our hotel ("Seventh Heaven," whatever that means) and go to find some breakfast. It's not hard to find. It's not tourist season so every restaurant is dying for business, giving you great deals. We settled on a place right on the water (literally) and had some yummy eggs, foul (type of delicious bean dish) and falafel. We then just walk around most of the afternoon to get our bearings and find the dive center where we would be renting our equipment for tomorrow's big excursion.

Sunset came quickly after roaming the beaches all afternoon and we headed for a rooftop deck for dinner. We had the best fruit smoothies and pizza. The view was fantastic- across from us is Saudi Arabia, to the left of us Jordan and Israel... but all around us amazingly turquoise water. At this point, I felt like the biggest hippie of all time. Jack Johnson music playing in the background. Small cats and dogs lounging everywhere, and the three of us just sipping smoothies (I can't emphasize enough how good these were) on the rooftop deck over the Red Sea. Kind of ridiculous, but I took it all in and just enjoyed being a part of the moment.

After dinner we did a bit of shopping. The stores were pushy, but not too pushy. I got some things for my friends, and then we headed to the hookah store, where one of Nic and Kate's roommate said we had to go. Enter: Omar, Master of Shisha.

Now, before I begin telling you about my experiences with hookah/shisha, I'd like to clear up what it is...

A hookah is a multi-stemmed, glass-based water pipe device for smoking flavored tobacco, originating from India. From India, it was made popular as the form we now see it in today in Turkey and Egypt. (so yes, FLAVORED TOBACCO. Nothing else. Amen, and let's move on)

So back to Omar: Master of Sheesha. This dude is one crazy guy. He is very good friends with Nic and Kate's roomie, so he was very warm and welcoming and invited us in to smoke. Now, I'm not a smoker by any means, but hookah is a very fun communal thing, and is enjoyable every once in awhile. The flavored tobacco he had was apple with a bit of mint. I wish I could explain the experience more, but it's difficult. He has two videos on YouTube, if you're really interested. Anyway, we spent a lot of time with him and he's a very nice, yet crazy guy. You must see the pictures below of Nic with Omar kiving him "Shisha Kisses." Wild.

After the craziness of Omar: The Master of Shisha, we went back to the hotel and crashed.

Lucky to Have Friends Like This

I met Nic at the very beginning of his time at AU- I was his orientation leader. He was the kid who didn't want to participate too much, but went along with it anyways. I remembered him because he was so nice and he was from Alaska, a place that no one else I had met at AU was from.

A year later I had a class with Nic and we struck up a friendship. We both love photography and spoke about it quite often. Soon after class began, we found out we had both signed up for a Spring Break trip to Cherokee Nation, North Carolina, and that his girlfriend Kate was coming too.

We weren't even in the van for an hour before I knew these two were going to be lifelong friends of mine. They are kind, gracious, giving, and so down to earth. As a senior, I was blown away with their maturity level. I will never forget that trip and how much fun we had together. I saw Kate and Nic on a regular basis for the rest of the semester, and then I graduated.

I kept in touch with both of them over the summer, and stumbled across a fantastic flight price to Egypt. Kate told me to get it and I did. I was nervous about coming and intruding on their life, studies, etc., but they have made my time here so fantastic.

Both Kate and Nic are outstanding people. They speak very good Arabic already and aren't afraid to tell cabbies they are being ripped off. I watch them haggle and am in awe!

They have been the most gracious hosts. I never would have imagined how great they would be. They picked me up from the airport, had a room all ready for me, bring me back lunch after they go to class, set up mini tours of Cairo for me (even though they are so sick of the Pyramids!) and are always making sure that I'm having a good time. I can't even begin to tell you how impressed I am.

In the midst of 20 hours of class a week and side jobs, Nic and Kate still run 3-5 miles almost everyday, cook fantastic dinners every night, study Arabic on their breaks between classes, and have great friendships. I don't know how they do it and stay so composed. And all the while I'm here, interrupting their flow, and do not seem to mind or be affected by it.

I am just so proud to have these two as my friends. I know they are going to go so far in life and have amazing stories. They are doing so well here in Egypt, and are really taking care of themselves. I think some days are harder than others, but their strong relationship helps get them through the rough patches of living in an Arab country where no one really wants you there.

Their maturity in not only themselves, but in their relationship with each other is staggering. The other couple that is living here is a bit older and have been dating for over four years- they have nothing on Nic and Kate. Nic and Kate aren't clingy or too far detached- they have just the right balance of "Nic and Kate time", "alone time" and "friend time" ...and for that I give them major points.

These two are very very special, and I'm really proud of them, and to be their friend!

We're off to the Red Sea now for the weekend. (Weekends in Muslim countries are Fridays & Saturdays) I'm looking forward to Sinai and Dahab, and going snorkeling. I get to use my new underwater camera, too!

I hope all is well in the states... I heard you had a few snow days!